Giorgio Armani is a design colonialist responsible for the creation
of an aesthetic in both menswear and womenswear that had a firm grip on
international style in the 1980s. Renowned for his use of fabric and
expertise in tailoring, he is a world leader in menswear design
responsible for the wide-shouldered look for executive women. His
pared-down unstructured silhouette moved away from the standard tailored
look epitomizing menswear since the 19th century; by eliminating
interfaces, linings, and shoulder pads, Armani restructured the jacket,
creating a softly tailored look.
Although Armani produces entire ranges of these functional,
adaptable, flexible items of clothing that seem almost throwaway in
their simplicity, they are, in fact, luxurious designs made of
high-quality cloth. His clothes, however, although expensive, have their
own understated glamour and could never be described as ostentatious.
Neither trend nor tradition, the Armani style draws a fine line between
the two. Eschewing change for its own sake, he believes in quality
rather than invention. His collections are redefinitions of a soft,
unstructured style, playing with layers of texture and color but
constantly renegotiating proportions. Elegant and understated, they have
a timeless quality, a classicism often emphasized in nostalgic
advertising campaigns by Italian photographer Aldo Fallai.
Born in Piacenza, Italy, in 1934, Armani's first taste of the fashion
industry was with La Rinascente, a large Italian department store chain
where in 1954 he worked on the window displays. He then transferred to
the Office of Fashion and Style where he had an invaluable training in
the use of fabrics and the importance of customer profiling and
targeting. After seven years he left to design menswear for Nino Cerruti,
and for a month worked in one of the firm's textile factories where he
learned to appreciate fabric, the skills that went into its production,
and the techniques of industrial tailoring.
In 1974 Armani launched his own label, which was to become incredibly
successful—the biggest-selling line of European design in America. His
first designs revolved around the refining of the male jacket, which he
believed to be the most important invention in the history of dress,
being both versatile and functional and suited to all social occasions.
His idea was to instil the relaxation of sports clothing into its
tailored lines. He later applied similar notions to womenswear, evolving
a new manner of dress for women. He further developed a style for
working women with an understated, almost androgynous chic.
In these years, Armani designs were very expensive, being made out of
the most luxurious materials such as alpaca, cashmere, and suede. To
expand his customer base and meet the increasing demands of a fashion
conscious public for clothes with a designer label, he produced a
cheaper womenswear range entitled Mani, made out of synthetics so
advanced they could not be copied, together with the popular Emporio
Armani range of sportswear. For men he produced definitive navy blazers,
crumpled linen jackets, and leather separates, which he introduced in
1980, and oversized overcoats and raincoats. Impeccably tailored, with
faltering cut, easy lines, and subtle textures, patterns, and colors, he
introduced twists such as lowslung button placement on double-breasted
suits for men and experimental blends of fabrics such as viscose with
wool or linen with silk.
Like his contemporaries in the industry, Armani diversified into
jeans, undergarments, neckwear, golf apparel, accessories, fragrances,
and more recently, cosmetics. With more than a dozen clothing lines, the
quality has not diminished, merely attracted a wider clientéle which in
turn attracted the notice of luxury conglomerates LVMH and Gucci Group.
Both approached Armani with acquisitive offers, but he refused. "Of
course, I was flattered," he told Richard Heller of Forbes (12
November 2001), "But I decided to keep my independence." He is, indeed,
one of a disappearing breed, without stockholders or backers to answer
to—rather, he has increasingly bought his licensees and brought most
Armani brand in-house.
If ever there was a doubt about how the world felt about Armani and
his contributions to fashion, they were completely dispelled in November
2000 when the Guggenheim Museum threw a lavish gala to mark the opening
of its Giorgio Armani retrospective in New York. Covering 25 years of
Armani creativity and featuring 400 garments, the exhibition attracted a
glittering crowd including Hollywood celebrities, athletes, and
musicians. Giorgio Armani, now and forever, represents the finest in
elegant, sophisticated style.
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