Banana Republic was a creative fashion adventure in the United States
that began when writer Mel Ziegler needed a new jacket. He wanted one
without extraneous zippers or buttons, and not made in bright-colored
polyester. While on assignment in Sydney, Australia, he bought three
British Burma jackets. His wife Patricia, an artist, restyled the three
jackets into one, using the various parts to make necessary repairs. She
added elbow patches, horn buttons, and a wood buckle. Friends and
acquaintances liked Mel's "new" jacket and inquired about purchasing
one. It seems other people wanted clothing that was usable and stylish,
without designer labels. Seeing a potential market, the Zieglers set off
in search of army surplus and other items that could be converted into
usable clothing. They traveled to South America, Africa, London, and
Madrid, searching out usable goods. According to their book Banana
Republic Guide to Travel and Safari Clothing, their motto became,
"in surplus we trust."
At first they marketed their finds at flea markets, selling the
surplus as it was or restyled. Basque sleeping bags became Basque
sheepskin vests. Shirts with tattered collars were given new ones.
Eventually the market grew so much the Zieglers moved into a storefront
in Mill Valley, California. This became the second part of the Ziegler
adventure in fashion and merchandising. Lacking funds for extensive
decorating, they painted the walls in a zebra stripe, and added other
decor to create the image of a jungle trading post. The background music
was provided by their personal tapes of 1940s and 1950s jazz. The store
was a dramatic, rather theatrical, setting for their surplus and
redesigned articles of clothing.
The third part of this fashion adventure was the nontraditional
catalogue the Zieglers developed to sell their product to both men and
women. Again, due to limited funding, Patricia drew pictures of the
clothes. Mel wrote text that went beyond bland descriptions of the
clothes, to include their place of origin, or how to use the items.
Calling their enterprise Banana Republic to denote change, the
Zieglers began a unique merchandising adventure. People liked the
stylish, rugged surplus goods sold at relatively low cost. The business
grew quickly, and in 1983 the Zieglers decided to sell Banana Republic
to The Gap, Inc. The Gap provided the business know-how, which the
Zieglers admittedly lacked, allowing the Zieglers to continue to
concentrate on the creative end of the business, at which they excelled.
When demand outpaced the supply of surplus goods, Patricia designed
clothing which was then manufactured for Banana Republic. The clothes
and accessories were always stylish, comfortable, and high quality. The
designs suggested travel, safari, and camping. The clothes were
utilitarian, they could be dressed up or dressed down, and most articles
were made of durable, natural, neutral-colored fabrics or fabrics that
traveled well. Another likable feature of the company was customer
service—free alterations were offered for much of the company's
clothing. Walking into a Banana Republic store was like walking on to a
movie set for a jungle outpost, an African hunting lodge, or British
officers' club. Mock elephant tusks were hung and jeeps became part of
the decor, as did old furniture and luggage. The Zieglers' original jazz
collection was enhanced by animal sounds from the jungle.
The expanded catalogue had fashion descriptions written by a number
of professional writers and journalists. The text included background
stories, travel adventure vignettes, and endorsements written by famous
people. Drawings were still used for the clothing but were now in color.
In addition, photographs of people in various places, wearing the same
or similar clothes were included. The catalogue had become an adventure
to read.
Banana Republic emerged at a time when there was a general shift away
from all-purpose department stores, towards smaller stores which
concentrated on doing one thing well. They were one of the first stores
to concentrate on clothing made of natural fabrics, in stylishly rugged
designs. Catalogue selling was an integral part of their merchandising
operation. Their customers were not concerned with the dictates of the
fashion world. With Gap's input, sales increased dramatically and many
new stores were opened. By 1986 Banana Republic was one of the hottest
retail concepts, but the appeal for safari and khaki clothing was
dwindling. By the end of the 1980s, new items, fabrics, and colors were
introduced, but sales slowed even further and Gap announced plans to
remodel and recreate all their stores. By early 1990 some of the stores
were remodeled and stores were showing new merchandise. To maintain
consumer traffic while changes took place, prices on remaining articles
were substantially lowered and new merchandise was being introduced. New
clothing, which featured brighter colors and a "cruise line" appeal were
placed at the front of the store while the more traditional khaki
apparel was placed in the back. Another big change was the disappearance
of the theatrical props that had made the original stores unique.
With the changes, Banana Republic seemed to be back on track. The
stores were less cluttered, were lighter and brighter, and the phrase,
"Travel and Safari Clothing" was dropped from the name. Clothing
articles included apparel for various occasions, including weekend wear,
professional attire, and dressy casual items made of more luxuriant
fabrics such as cashmere and suede. The change in decor, style, and
fabrics was necessary given that many retailers were carrying
travel-look attire such as cargo pants and Jeeps (or jeep-like vehicles)
seemed to be parked in every other driveway. By the mid-1990s, following
a growing trend, Banana Republic launched bath and body care products
including a Banana Republic cologne and undergarments. Later, "whole
concept stores" were created which included home accessories such as
bedding, sofa pillows, candles, and picture frames. In 1996 Banana
Republic opened stores exclusively for men and women.
In 1998 Banana Republic launched its most extensive marketing
campaign, which included its first TV spots, print ads, magazine
inserts, and outdoor kiosks. More interesting was the reintroduction of
the catalogue—the first in over a decade. In addition to the catalogue,
keeping customer service was kept in the forefront, with telephone order
representatives called "style consultants." In the late 1990s, Banana
Republic offered e-commerce, allowing customers to return articles at
local stores rather than send them back through the post office. In 2000
Banana Republic reopened its flagship store in San Francisco on the
corner of Grant Avenue and Sutter Street; this store offers valet
parking, personal shoppers, and free cell-phone charging services.
Through Banana Republic, Mel and Patricia Ziegler filled a niche for
comfortable, rugged, yet stylish clothes. They marketed their product
through a catalogue that was interesting to read, and at stores that
were an adventure to enter. Banana Republic has changed dramatically
since the days when the Zieglers started the company; however, keeping
with their original intent, customers are offered quality items and
where customer service is still important.
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